Horticulture Update
MARCH 2001

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HORTICULTURE UPDATE is designed as a source of information for County Extension Agents and Specialists to utilize in local news releases and as part of their educational programs across Texas, but will also appeal to gardeners and plant-lovers of all kinds, especially those interested in growing plants under the tough conditions of Texas and the Southern United States. Our information is oriented for Texas gardeners and Texas conditions.

Each issue includes a monthly checklist for suggested garden activities along with articles on gardening topics and profiles of plants especially suitable for Texas and the South. Another feature of the publication is information about forthcoming educational opportunities sponsored by the Texas Agricultural Extension Service.

Dr. William C. Welch and Dr. Douglas F. Welsh, both Extension Horticulturists in the Department of Horticultural Sciences at Texas A&M University, share editorial responsibilities for the newsletter. Articles from County Extension Agents (Horticulture), and Specialists in related disciplines are welcome and encouraged.

Mature plant size varies from 1 to 6 feet and flower sizes from 3 to 7 inches across. Flowers occur in March and April. Because all the primary colors are inherent in the various species that contributed to this group, there is no limit to the color range. The Louisianas, for example, include the purest form of red of any iris.

Louisiana irises prefer an acid soil in the range of 6.5 or lower. They like large quantities of fertilizer and water, but their greatest need for both of these comes during the naturally cool and moist fall and winter seasons. They are among the few irises that will thrive in poorly drained soils, and may be effectively used along streams and lakes where they may be inundated periodically during changing water levels. Foliage is lush and requires heavy fertilization to remain healthy and productive.

Some varieties go dormant during the heat of summer, leaving dead foliage that should be cut back or removed. New foliage will appear again in the fall. Fall is the best season for transplanting. Beds should be well tilled and amended with large amounts of compost, peat, or pine bark. Rhizomes should be planted just below ground level and kept moist until well established. Clumps spread quickly, and individual rhizomes should be spaced several feet apart to avoid need for annual division.

Mulching in the summer protects rhizomes against sunscald. Winter protection is not necessary, but could help prevent the evaporation of essential moisture in northern and dry areas of the region. Azalea-camellia fertilizers are recommended, along with water soluble fertilizers designed to lower the soil pH. After bloom is completed in the spring, the stalks should be cut back to the rhizome. Old rhizomes do not bloom again, but increase to produce the following year’s crop.

These flamboyant flowers are attractive to bees, and the visits of these insects often result in pollination and the production of fertile seed in the irises' large seed pods. Ripening seeds sap the plant’s strength, so they should be removed unless, of course, the grower has decided to raise new plants from seed. If so, leave the pods in place until they turn yellow-green in July or August, shell out the seeds before they dry, and plant at once into pots of well-prepared soil. Provide adequate protection over the winter, and plant the young seedlings into permanent locations in March.

Although not always available in a great variety of colors, Louisiana irises are sold by some garden centers in Texas. Mail order sources are another possibility. Special plant sales, such as the Bulb Mart in Houston each fall and March Mart at the Mercer Arboretum, usually offer a wide variety of Louisiana irises.

Wildflower Wheel Identifies Texas Wildflowers

By Diane Bowen, Ag Publications, Texas A&M University

The wheel was created to help people identify the wildflowers they see along the highways each year. Produced by the Texas Agricultural Extension Service, the wheel features photographs of 16 of the state’s most common wildflowers: black-eyed Susan, bluebonnet, coreopsis, Drummond phlox, gayfeather, Indian blaket, Indian paintbrush, lemon mint, Maximillan sunflowers, mealy cup sage, Mexican hat, pink evening primrose, verbena, bluebell, standing cypress and wine cup.

To help gardeners trying to grow wildflowers, the wheel features both the blossom and the seedling for each species.

“Texas has a worldwide reputation for its wildflowers,” said Doug Welsh, Extension horticulturist.”The wildflower wheel will help Texans, new and old, identify and grow these Lone Star natives.” The wheels detail information about wildflowers, such as the fact that Texas has no law that specifically makes it illegal to pick wildflowers. But it is illegal to trespass on private property or to damage government property (including road rights-of-way). Motorists should not dig up clumps of flowers or drive over them so that others can enjoy them also.

To beautify roadsides, the Texas Department of Transportation sows more than 60,000 pounds of wildflower seeds along highways each fall.

In the past, wildflowers have been used for medicinal purposes: Native Americans made tea from plains coreopsis to strengthen their blood. Gayfeather is also called snakeroot because part of it was once used to treat snakebites. Pioneers brewed a cough medicine from lemon mint. A number of Texas wildflowers are endangered species. One of them, the Navasota ladies’-tresses, grows only in Grimes County.

The wheel also provides tips for growing wildflowers, including:

• Fall is the best time to plant wildflowers.
• Select a site that drains well and gets at least five hours of sunlight each day.
• Remove the vegetation from the site.
• Rake or lightly till the soil surface to a depth of one inch.
• Thoroughly mix one part wildflower seed with four parts sand or potting soil.
• Scatter the seeds uniformly over the prepared area.
• Press the seeds into the soil by walking over the area. Do not cover the seeds any deeper than l/16 inch. Some seeds will remain visible, but to germinate they must be in firm contact with the soil.
• Although most wildflowers do well without regular watering, it’s a good idea to give them a drink during a prolonged dry spell.

A wheel costs $10.95 and can be ordered at:

For credit card orders, by call toll-free (888) 900-2577.

Assessing Ice Damage to Trees

From the Lamar County Master Gardener Newsletter

The first step is to assess the damage. Before writing off a damaged tree as a “goner,” evaluate trees by asking the following questions:

1. Other than the storm damage, is the tree basically healthy and vigorous? If the tree is basically healthy, is not creating a hazard, and did not suffer major structural damage, it will generally recover if first aid measures are applied immediately after the storm.

2. Are major limbs broken? The larger a broken limb is, the harder it will be for the tree to recover from the damage. If a majority of the main branches are gone, the tree may have little chance of surviving.

3. Has the leader (the main upward-trending branch on most trees) been lost? In species where a leader is important to upward growth or desirable to appearance, it may have to be a judgement call. The tree may live without its leader, but at best wold be a stunted or deformed version of the original.

4. Is at least 50 percent of the tree’s crown (branches and leaves) still intact? This is a good rule of thumb on tree survivability. A tree with less than half of its branches remaining may not be able to produce enough foliage to nourish the tree through another season.

5. How big are the wounds where branches have been broken or bark has been damaged? The larger the wound is in relation to the size of the limb, the less likely it is to heal, leaving the tree vulnerable to disease and pests. A two- to three-inch wound on a 12-inch diameter limb will seal over with new bark within a couple of years.

6. Are there remaining branches that can form a new branch structure? The remaining limbs will grow more vigorously as the tree tries to replace its missing foliage. Look to see if branches are in place that can eventually fill out the tree’s appearance.

7. Is the tree of a desirable species for its location? If the tree is in the wrong location (such as a potentially tall tree beneath a power line), or an undesirable species for the property (messy fruit, etc.), it may be best to remove it if it has serious damage.

1. It’s a “keeper.” If damage is relatively slight, prune any broken branches, repair torn bark or rough edges around wounds, and let the tree begin the process of wound repair.

2. Wait and See. If a valuable tree appears to be a borderline case, resist the temptation to simply cut the tree down and be done with it. In such cases, it may be best to stand back for a while and think it over. Remember that time is on your side. After careful pruning of broken branches, give the tree some time to recover. A final decision can be made later. The majority of trees may be classified into this category.

3. Say Goodbye. Some trees simply cannot be saved or are not worth saving. If the tree already has been weakened by disease, if the trunk is split, or more than 50 percent of the crown is gone, the tree has lost its survival edge. Remember, photosynthesis is the process by which plants grow. Photosynthesis requires sufficient leaves (or needles) to capture sunlight and feed the tree. Significant loss of limbs and leaf sites will drastically reduce the tree’s photosynthesis capacity an ultimately, its ability to recover and survive.

More information can be found by visiting the Texas Chapter of the International Society of Arboriculture website at:

Or, go to the Texas Chapter of the ISA at:

The National Arbor Day Foundation has helpful hints on their website at:

Also, agencies such as the Texas Agricultural Extension Service and the Texas Forest Service can provide useful information. For more information about the Texas Forest Service, visit:

Sweet Corn Flavor

By J. B. Jones, Master Gardener, Lamar County, Texas

The “su” gene is in the standard sweet corn you have grown through the years. It gives a rich corn flavor and the quality is best if it is isolated from field corn, picked and eaten in the same day. Silver Queen, a variety recommended for our area has this gene.

The “se” gene increases the original levels of sugars in the kernels, extends the flavor and slows the loss of moisture from the kernel. These varieties should also be isolated from field corn and have a slightly better flavor if isolated from varieties with the “su” gene. Kandy Korn, a very popular variety in our area, has the “se” gene.

The “sh” gene raises the levels of sugar further, again extending flavor and shelf life. The varieties with the “sh” gene are often called the “super sweets” or “extra sweets.”

The latest development in sweet corn varieties gave us the “SB” gene and these varieties are often called the “sweet breed.” They have an important characteristic. They can be planted near “su” or “se” types without losing flavor. However, they should still be isolated from field corn and varieties with the “sh” gene. High sugar content, long shelf life, good germination in cold soils and vigor characterize these varieties. Varieties with the “SB” gene are not readily available but the very, very similar gene “shz” is present in the All-American Selection, How Sweet It Is.

Check these sweet corn designations when you buy your seed and you may be better satisfied with the flavor.

Pruning Hedges

By Dr. Douglas Welsh, Professor and Extension Horticulturist
Texas A&M University

A well-shaped hedge is no accident. It must be trained from the beginning. The establishment of a deciduous hedge begins with the selection of nursery stock. Choose young trees or shrubs 1 to 2 feet high, preferably multiple-stemmed. Cut the plants back to 6 or 8 inches when planting; this induces low branching. Late in the first season or before bud-break in the next season, prune off half of the new growth. In the following year, again trim off half.

In the third year, start shaping. Trim to the desired shape before the hedge grows to its desired size. Never allow the plants to grow untrimmed to the final height before shaping; by that time, it is too late to get maximum branching at the base. Do not allow lower branches to be shaded out. After the hedge has reached the desired dimensions, trim closely in order to keep the hedge within chosen bounds.

Evergreen nursery stock for hedging need not be as small as deciduous material and should not be cut back when planted. Trim lightly after a year or two. Start shaping as the individual plants merge into a continuous hedge. Do not trim too closely because many needle-bearing evergreens do not easily generate new growth from old wood.

Hedges are often shaped with flat tops and vertical sides; however, this unnatural shape is seldom successful. As far as the plant is concerned, the best shape is a natural form with a rounded o slightly pointed top and with sides slanting to a wide bas (fig. 1).

After plants have been initially pruned to induce low branching, the low branching is maintained by trimming the top narrower than the bottom so that sunlight can reach all of the plant leaves (Fig. 2).

These questions often arise and the answers depend to some extent on how formal an appearance is desired. How often should this hedge be trimmed? When should I trim? In general, trim before the growth exceeds 1 foot. Hedges of slow-growing plants such as boxwood need to be trimmed sooner. Excessive untrimmed growth will kill lower leaves and will also pull the hedge out of shape. Trimming frequency depends on the kind of shrub, the season and desired neatness.

What can be done with a large, overgrown, bare-bottomed and misshapen hedge? If it is deciduous, the answer is fairly simple. In spring before leaves appear, prune to 1 foot below the desired height. Then carefully trim for the next few years to give it the desired shape and fullness. Hedge plants may occasionally decline too much to recover from this treatment, thus making it necessary to replace them.

Rejuvenating evergreen hedges is more difficult. As a rule, evergreens cannot stand the severe pruning described. Arborvitae and yew are exceptions. Other evergreen hedges may have to be replaced.

Tools. What tools should be used to trim hedges? The traditional pair of scissor-action hedge shears is still the best all-around tool. It will cut much better an closer than electric trimmers which often break and tear twigs. Hand shears can be used on any type of hedge, while electric trimmers do poorly on large-leaved and wiry-twigged varieties, and sometimes jam on thick twigs. Hand shears are also quieter, safer and are less likely to gouge the hedge or harm the operator.

Hand pruners are useful in removing a few stray branches and are essential if an informal look is desired. Large individual branches can be removed with loppers or a pruning saw. Chain saws are not recommended for use on hedges.

This material originally appeared in the 'Master Gardener Handbook'.

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National Pesticide Telecommunication Network (NPTN)

he National Pesticide Telecommunications Network (NPTN) is a toll-free information service sponsored cooperatively by Oregon State University and the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. NPTN provides objective, science-based information on a wide variety of pesticide-related subjects, including pesticide products, pesticide poisonings, toxicology, and environmental chemistry. It is staffed by qualified and trained pesticide specialists who have the toxicology and environmental chemistry training needed to help callers interpret and understand scientific information about pesticides.

NPTN receives more than 20,000 calls per year. Most callers are homeowners concerned about their family's health when pesticides are being used in and around their home for the control of ants, cockroaches, termites, fleas, or garden and lawn pests. NPTN can provide information on specific recommendations about which pesticides to use for control of pests, or can direct callers to local resources for products available in their area.

If people call with pesticide emergencies, the NPTN staff can connect them directly to the Oregon Poison Control Center or the National Animal Poison Control Center. Additionally, the staff can refer calls requiring a medical background to a medically trained clinical toxicologist. They can also direct callers to appropriate agencies for assistance with pesticide incident investigations, safety guidelines, clean-up and disposal, and laboratory analyses.

NPTN utilizes a variety of information sources including EPA documents, USDA Cooperative Extension publications, current scientific literature, and pesticide product databases. Non-copyrighted materials can be mailed or faxed to callers for the cost of postage and handling.

Information is also available through the NPTN World Wide Web site at:

https://nptn.orst.edu

NPTN can be reached 6:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Pacific Time seven days a week, excluding holidays. Telephone: 1-800-858-7378. Fax: 1-541-737-0761. E-mail: nptn@ace.orst.edu

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Collecting Pecan Graftwood

By Dr. George Ray McEachern, Extension Horticulturist
Texas A&M University, College Station, TX 77843-2134

he Texas inlay bark graft method has become the standard top working technique for pecans throughout the irrigated southwest. Heat, drought, high light intensity, wind and other factors common to the southwest make grafting very difficult. Classic grafting systems used in Europe, California, New York and Georgia for other fruit crops fail in Texas because of these limitations. Along the Gulf Coast many of these other grafts are effective; however, once one moves 200 miles from the humid conditions grafting becomes very difficult.

The four-flap graft has also become popular in Texas because of its easy technique and very high percent of success, even by beginners. Commercial nurseries use the patch-bud graft in the spring, but more commonly in the late summer.

Spring patch-buds will require budwood collected late in the winter just before bud break. Most graftwood is collected in February and early March while the wood is very dormant.

When to Collect Graftwood and Budwood?
The longer one waits to collect wood, the shorter the period of time before bud break after grafting. Ideally, one would like to have three to five weeks after grafting and before the buds begin to grow. This long period will give the cambium tissue of the graft and cambium tissue of the rootstock sufficient time for each to generate new bark and wood which are connected. Once the tissues are connected, water can move from the rootstock wood up into the new graft and success follows. On the other hand, if conditions are not ideal or if there is not sufficient time for the graft/rootstock cambium tissues to generate a connection, the graft or bud will die. Therefore, the time at which you collect graftwood or budwood is very important.

Collect pecan graftwood from February l to March 15. This is the wood which will be used for the Texas inlay bark graft method or the four-flap graft.

Collect pecan budwood from March 15 until primary bud swell. This is the wood which will be used for patch budding. Graftwood will not allow the patch to slip or pop off the graft stick because it is too tight or too dormant. Patch budding in the summer, starting in mid July through August is done with fresh budwood collected the same day you graft. These patches are on current season wood and will pop off and separate from the wood very easily.

Where Do You Collect Graftwood and Budwood?
Strong, rapidly growing one year old wood is ideal for grafting or budding. This is easy to find on young, fast growing trees or in the tops of trees which have just begun to bear. Old trees or slow growing trees should be avoided. If a large number of grafts will be needed, older trees can be dehorned to stimulate compensatory growth. These straight, round, one year old shoots are perfect for grafting or budding.

Drought, freeze or herbicide damaged trees should not be used for graftwood. Trees which are not positively identified also should not be used. All too often, growers will think a tree is a certain variety when it is not. Variety identification is a very important part of graftwood collection. Waterproof ink and metal tags should always be used.

Two year old wood can be used, but it is not as good as current season growth.

How to Process Graftwood and Budwood?
Once the wood is cut from the tree, it should be moved out of the sun to a cool, moist location to wait for processing. The graftwood should be processed for storage the same day it is collected. Cut the graft sticks into 6", 12", or 18" lengths which will give one, two or three grafts per stick.

Process only one variety at a time to prevent mixing the varieties.

Dip the freshly cut ends in orange shellac, grafting wax, paraffin or pruning compound. Orange shellac is ideal because it never dries and new growth from the graft will move over it without delay.

Make sure the primary buds are not damaged or knocked off while processing the wood. This primary bud, or insurance bud as it is sometimes called, has the best chance for growth after the two cambium tissues connect, so caution needs to be practiced to prevent losing it.

A very small amount of moisture should be maintained near the graftwood while it is stored. In the old days this was in wooden boxes with moist wood shavings. Today, paper towels and polyethylene bags are used. Avoid colored plastic bags because they may not breathe. The respiration rate of the dormant grafts in refrigeration is very slow; therefore, the bags should allow carbon dioxide to exit, and oxygen to enter the bag. The paper towels used for maintaining moisture should be squeezed to near dryness. This is accomplished by soaking the towels in water, squeezing the water out with a very strong grip of the hand, and finally stepping on the towels with your foot. Then, take the towel up, shake it out and it is ready to wrap five graft sticks. This will prevent the collection of too much water and the formation of mold on the graftwood. Dr. Loy Shreve always said, "It is better to have no moisture source than wet graftwood." This is very true. So, when you squeeze the wet paper towels, they need to be squeezed dry.

How To Store Graftwood and Budwood?
Once sealed in polyethylene bags with variety and year identification using waterproof ink, the graftwood needs to be stored at 35 to 45 degrees F. until used. Make sure the graftwood does not freeze. The refrigerator needs to be monitored frequently to prevent freezing. A high/low thermometer is good insurance against freezing.

Graftwood can be used only on the year it is collected. Make sure the label is marked for the year and the variety.

Take the graftwood out of refrigeration only as needed. A cool, then warm, then cool cycling of the temperature is not good. Also, move the graftwood to the orchard grafting site in a cooler with ice to keep it from getting hot.

If the graftwood or budwood is collected from strong, fast growing trees and if it is processed and stored properly, grafters should obtain at least 90% survival with the Texas inlay bark graft method or the four-flap graft. Grafting should not be attempted before the sap is moving; there are small leaves on the tree and the bark is slipping. This is usually in early April and grafting can continue until mid to late May, depending on how fast the season becomes hot.

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2001 Pecan Management Calendar For Texas

By Dr. George Ray McEachern, Extension Horticulturist
Texas A&M University, College Station, TX 77843-2134

ecan growers can be optimistic about the 2001 season and there is good reason: we have had a very cool but not extremely cold winter and we have had good rains over most of the state. The 2000 season was very short, so we are expecting a good crop this year. This calendar can be a guide in planning management steps for the up coming season.

January/February

• Clean up the orchard, shop, barn, and equipment.
• Collect and store graft wood in poly bags at 45 degrees F until needed in April and May.
• Prune all narrow "V" trunks by removing one trunk, the younger the tree, the better.
• Finalize records for year 2000 crop and expenses.
• Plant young trees only on deep well drained soil with irrigation, cut tree l/2, add bywall grow tube.
• Select, mark, and remove crowded trees as limbs touch, contract for firewood or BBQ wood.
• Select and cut back the best central leader on 2,3, or 4 year old trees, and remove other shoots at top.
• Tip prune very vigorous side shoots, to avoid crows feet on 4 or 5 year old trees.
• Remove l" or larger shoots from the lower trunk of 4 or 5 year old trees for shaker space.
• Trunk suckers should be removed below last year's grafts.

March

• Spray herbicide strip down row for large trees to kill overwintering weeds, before bud break.
• Spray herbicide strip or circle around young trees, using bywall grow tubes for trunk protection.
• Check out irrigation system for freeze damage.
• Get tractors and sprayers ready before the big April and May rush.

April

• At bud break begin weekly foliar zinc sprays on young or bearing trees, spray only until wet.
• Fertilize mature trees with 50 lbs of N per acre during the 4th week of April.
• Fertilize young trees, beginning the second year, every two weeks with small applications of N.
• Irrigate weekly if rains do not occur, caution do not saturate the soil with excess water.
• Grafting begins when bark slips with new growth, using grafts collected dormant in February.
• If frequent rains occur, spray with fungicide on bearing trees to prevent pecan scab growth.

May

• Continue irrigation weekly according to soil water-holding capacity, tree use, and avoid soil water saturation by using short cycles.
• Monitor pecan nut casebearer pheromone traps daily.
• Record and plot all casebearer counts to determine if a spray is needed. The spray window is 12-16 days after the first good moth catch.
• Sample 10 nut clusters on 32 trees (320 clusters) daily and count eggs. If two or more clusters have eggs, then 10% of the nuts will be infested and lost.
• Crop size should be determined by counting the number with cluster out of 10 shoots per tree, if 3 of 10 shoots have nuts the crop is low; 5 of 10 is a good crop, and 7 of 10 is heavy.
• Fertilize the second time with 50 lbs of N per acre on mature trees down the tree row in the weed free herbicide strip.
• Spray the 4th foliar zinc spray to mature trees, continue every two weeks on young trees if they are growing fast, if young trees are not growing, stop the zinc sprays.
• Spray for the pecan nut casebearer only if needed according to sampling and crop size, then cover entire orchard at peak insecticide effectiveness.
• Spray 2nd herbicide strip down tree row when weeds are 10" tall.
• Continue grafting as long as bark slips.
• Frequent rains require fungicide sprays for pecan scab prevention on susceptible varieties.

June

• Spray the 5th and final foliar zinc spray to mature trees, continue every two weeks for young trees.
• Scout for 2nd generation pecan nut casebearer, spray insecticide only if needed.
• Fertilize mature bearing trees with 50 lbs N per acre only if a good or heavy crop is set.
• Fertilize the last time for young trees to insure stoppage of growth in September and no freeze damage in October or December.
• Irrigate weekly if no rains occur to increase nut size on bearing trees; double water to young trees.
• Frequent rains require fungicide sprays for scab prevention.

July

• Count terminals with clusters for crop estimate for nut thinning and continued fertilizer.
• Nut-thin trees with a heavy crop by trunk shaking trees with crop size of 7,8,9 or 10 shoots with clusters. Do not delay because early nut thinning is best as it reduces excessive crop load, increases percent kernel, and insures a return crop next year.
• Irrigate weekly if no rains occur to prevent water stage nut drop; continue water to young trees.
• Fertilize with 25 lbs N per acre on all mature trees with a good crop or more.
• Spray the last foliar zinc spray onto young trees to begin slowing down growth.

August

• Continue to nut thin all trees with a heavy crop.
• Continue to irrigate weekly to reduce tree stress and insure nut filling and normal shuck opening.
• Continue to irrigate young trees at a reduced volume to slow growth.
• Apply 3rd herbicide strip down mature tree row or around young trees keeping it off foliage.
• Fertilize with 25 lbs of N per acre on all mature trees with a good crop or more.
• Monitor for shuck worm, stink bug, and black aphid, and spray only if needed.
• Place pecan weevil traps under target trees; if heavy emergence occurs, spray to protect nut in the gel-dough stage if needed.

September

• Continue to irrigate weekly to reduce stress, continue kernel filling, and insure shuck opening.
• Stop irrigating young trees to stop growth and prepare for first freeze.
• Apply herbicide if not used in August to maximize water use by the trees.
• Begin cleaning orchard floor in preparation for harvest.
• Service harvesting and cleaning equipment for harvest.
• Contact more than one buyer for estimate on crop size, quality and prices to be paid.
• Prepare equipment for crow, squirrel, and raccoon management; also plan to prevent human theft.

October

• Continue to irrigate weekly until shuck split, late season irrigation is the most important of year.
• Harvest nuts as soon as shucks begin to open for best early prices, two shakes may be needed for the entire crop, and all nuts need to be harvested in only 8 weeks or December 7th.
• Early season nuts need to be dried as soon as possible to insure good kernel color.
• Continue to visit with buyers.
• Collect 40 nut samples of each variety from best trees for entry in county pecan show.
• Grade nuts for optimum pricing; record percent edible kernel, size, and nut color; all kernels with flaws should not be used, and collect nuts at random to insure a fair grade.
• Guard for human theft and continue to fight crows, squirrels, raccoons, and turkey.

November

• Continue harvest, cleaning, drying, and marketing pecans by grade as soon as possible.
• Have nuts contract shelled for holiday retail sales at the orchard by November 14th.
• Continue to grade each variety in every load for determining optimum price with buyers.
• Locally advertise your crop according to volume, quality, grade, freshness, availability, and price.

December

• Finish harvest as soon as possible or by December 7th for ideal holiday prices.
• Drain all sprayer pumps and irrigation equipment to prevent freeze damage.
• Finalize record keeping for the season while all cost and expenses can be remembered.

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By Dr. William C. Welch, Landscape Horticulturist
Texas A&M University, College Station, Texas

• Prepare beds for planting warm-season flowers and vegetables.

• For every 100 square feet of bed area, work in a 2- to 3-inch layer of organic material such as compost, pine bark, or sphagnum peat moss.

• Select and order caladium tubers as well as geranium and coleus plants for late April and early May planting. Do not plant caladiums until soil temperature reaches 70 degrees F.

• As camellia and azalea plants finish blooming, fertilize them with 3 pounds of azalea-camellia fertilizer per 100 square feet of bed area.

• Check mulch on azalea and camellia plantings and add where needed. Consider using pine needles, pine bark, or similar organic materials.

• Beware of closeout sales on bare-root trees and shrubs. The chance of survival is rather low on bare-rot plants this late in the season. Best bets for now are container-grown or balled-and-burlapped plants.

• Remember that many trees and shrubs are damaged or killed each year by the careless application of weed killers, including those found in mixes of fertilizers and weed killers. Always read and follow label directions very carefully. Weeds in a lawn usually indicate a poor lawn-management program and can usually be crowded out in a healthy turf.

  

• Start hanging baskets of petunias and other annuals for another dimension in landscape color.

• Freeze-damaged beds of Asiatic jasmine ground cover should be sheared back just as new growth starts to encourage new growth from the base.

• For early color in the landscape, try some of the following annuals as transplants: ageratums, cockscombs, fibrous rooted begonias, coreopsis, cosmos, cleomes, marigolds, nasturtiums, petunias, phlox, portulacas, salvias, sweet alyssums, sunflowers, and zinnias.

• Divide existing clumps of fall-blooming perennials, such as chrysanthemums, autumn asters, Mexican marigold mint, and physostegia (obedient plant). Separate the clumps into individual plants and set them 8-10" apart in groupings of 5 or more. Be sure to prepare the bed area well by spading in 3-5" of organic material into the top 8-10" of soil. For longlasting fertility add 3-5 pounds of cottonseed meal or slow release fertilizer per 100#s of bed area.
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